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The only humans this deep in the park are the rebels of the Lord's Resistance Army, which controls the right bank of the river and has, since 1987, been attempting to replace the Ugandan government with a strict Christian theocracy.

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Coetzee balances through the tumult of 80-degree water in part with forward momentum, like a skier, but mostly by heaving his 195-pound frame, forehead tucked behind his leading elbow, into wall after wall of unrelenting chaos. Crocodiles are stealthy and indiscriminate, charging fearlessly at anything resembling a meal with only their eyes above the water. It gave up the chase shortly thereafter and swam toward my helmet.

On Coetzee's 2004 Nile expedition, one launched itself out of the water at a crew member sitting on board a raft before the team hammered it back with paddle blows. Two hours later, Coetzee reaches the pool above the massive falls.

He dodges a pod of hippos and climbs up the left bank to safety.

The lone African explorer drags his kayak ashore and begins to collect firewood from around the little beach on the left bank of the White Nile. He's also careful not to stray beyond the jungle's green curtain—this is Uganda's Murchison Falls National Park, after all, home to the world's densest populations of hippopotamus and Nile crocodile, one an extremely territorial 4,500-pound vegetarian with six-inch dagger tusks and the other a voracious 12-foot-long opportunist.

It's April 10, 2007, and the day's descent of some of the continent's most powerful rapids has worn him to exhaustion. The explorer is Johannes Hendrik Coetzee, 32 years old, five feet eleven, with a thick build and a receding hairline shaved to skin.

He's a former South African Defence Force medic and a giant in the world of whitewater exploration, having organized and led a historic source-to-sea descent of the Nile in 2004.Though he's charismatic and charming, the kind of guy who changes the gravity in any room he enters, he now prefers to travel alone.Four elite teams have descended Murchison's two-day section of Class V water before now, and Coetzee was on three of them.But nobody had ever tried it solo before this trip.Now he sparks his fire in the quickening equatorial dusk, a lonely prick of light in a nearly 1,500-square-mile "chunk of untamed African savanna bisected by the mighty river Nile," as the park's literature proclaims.Below him, the river drops ferociously over a roughly 30-mile stretch before abruptly reaching the unrunnable 140-foot Murchison Falls itself, at the edge of the Rift Valley escarpment.

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